Molecular Digital Physical Product Passport for Textiles

Linking textile identity to the material itself—from fibre to passport.

M-DPP is a two-year applied research project (2025–2027) investigating how molecular-level material identification can underpin reliable, persistent Digital Product Passports for the textile sector—addressing a key gap in EU Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR) compliance.

Research challenge Our approach
Co-funded by NWO/SIA · Led by Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences with HAN University of Applied Sciences and industry partners.
Research themes
The project investigates four interconnected areas to create a verifiable, open, and interoperable DPP infrastructure grounded in material science.
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Molecular identification
Can fibre composition—including blends and recycled content—be reliably verified after years of use, washing, and wear?
Provenance and traceability
How can material-level identity support transparency requirements down to raw-material provenance (Tier 4)?
Open reference data
What public, open-source datasets are needed to validate composition and sustainability claims across the sector?
Interoperable infrastructure
How should modular DPP architecture be designed so SMEs can participate without proprietary lock-in?

The research challenge

The EU is mandating Digital Product Passports under ESPR, yet the predominantly SME-based textile industry lacks practical methods for persistent material verification. Conventional identifiers—QR codes, RFID tags, printed labels—degrade, detach, or get lost during use, creating a traceability gap exactly when verification is needed most. Existing DPP approaches do not address how to tie passport data back to the physical material itself.

Identity beyond labels

M-DPP investigates whether molecular fingerprints embedded in the textile material itself can serve as a durable, tamper-resistant alternative to external identifiers.

Verifiable claims

The project studies how composition, recycled content, and processing history can be independently verified using established analytical methods (FTIR, Raman, chromatography).

Open and interoperable by design

Rather than proposing a proprietary platform, M-DPP explores open standards and modular architectures that allow different actors to participate on equal terms.

Research approach

From molecular analysis to interoperable data exchange.

The project follows a design-science methodology, combining material science with information systems research. Knowledge is generated by building, testing, and evaluating working prototypes in realistic contexts with real companies.

1. Characterise
Develop and refine molecular fingerprinting methods (FTIR, Raman spectroscopy, chromatography, model-assisted image analysis) to identify fibre composition in textiles—including blends, recycled content, and aged materials.
2. Validate
Test whether molecular signatures remain reliable after real-world use: washing, wearing, ageing, and processing. Assess the limits and confidence levels of each analytical method.
3. Publish
Build an open-source reference database of textile molecular profiles, enabling independent validation of composition and sustainability claims across the sector.
4. Integrate
Design and prototype a modular, ESPR-aligned DPP architecture using open standards and accessible APIs—exploring how it can connect to European data spaces and support reporting obligations (e.g., EPR).
Research design

Co-designed with industry, validated in living labs.

M-DPP follows a participatory approach: prototypes are developed and tested together with Dutch textile partners including byBorre, Knitwear Lab, and New Order of Fashion (NOoF). A citizen-science component investigates how people interact with DPP information in everyday contexts—examining digital literacy, trust, and behavioural factors.

Living labs and co-design
Iterative development through Industry Living Labs and sector consultations, involving producers, recyclers, policymakers, and end-users in the design process.
Consortium
Led by Amsterdam University of Applied Sciences (Fashion Research & Technology and Responsible IT), with HAN University of Applied Sciences (Biobased Innovations) and partners including Candour.Digital and DCTV.
Expected contributions
Evidence-based methods to counter greenwashing, new knowledge on molecular identification for circular textiles, and an open foundation for DPP infrastructure accessible to SMEs.

Interested in collaborating?

We welcome research partners, industry collaborators, and policymakers who want to contribute to or follow the project. Whether you are a textile SME, a research group, or a standards body—we would like to hear from you.

Get in touch